LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AJHERICA. 



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INCLINE METHOD 



Published by 

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Moore & Radcliffe, 

CLEVELAND, OHIO. 

973 Woodland Ave. 




Copyrighted by Levison & BIythe Stationery Co., St. Louis. 



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Aiflur 1 i[Iiiftnit bae *i'crfalircn Sao fliaji bci? Rlirptro ju iiclimen. — .iutrft Imbiir* tap 6cv SJinfiftab 
liicl)t uiitcr Sic Slriiit niirtcltftt iviirt (jcSeo Wat ciiio) luobci man Sif *j<utl)ftalicii CO inartirt ; baiiii (ifl)f 
man cim- Viiitc uoii btm ciiicii fiiiii anftcicii iiiiti ifUc Sen S^iidlftnbeii A in Sic Wittc Sco >Kiittcn(! ; aloSann 
mc^c man uon () bio A iitii Sic Jicfc Sco X'lriulod)i> ^u befommcn, uiiS gebc cincii ,<oU ^u. 4hiu O bic 15 
ift bcr natiirlidK Umfann Sco ^^'cibo uni Sic yiiftcn iiiiS Su (^iitfcrnniin uon O bio I) in Sic »olli)ie i'annc 
Sco Siocto. Tann mcpc man ben ^'cib. Sic iPnift unS Sen i2cf)0B, flaiij leirtit nnS locfcr, Sa Sao idiopcn 
Waji bci Scm ^"W'ltiScn cinco Stoifco jo Unciitiii ift luic Sao ?<nift "Waff. VUoSann Icnc man Sic iieraSc 
Santc an Sen JKiid'cn Sco SiinScn an, U'if Sico in auiiiv 2 nt^tiflt roivS, nnS laiic Sic IVicfiidniiir iimfdjcn 
ben 2d)iiltcrblattcrn nnS Scni boblcti, obcr mittlern Jlicil bcr <iiiftcn anflicjicn. Wan lai'ic ben ^"lajiftab 
feft onlieflen, unb mejc nut cinem UBafiftab, oScr Scm C^nSc ciiieo SVMitfclo uon A nad) B bin iluif ncnnen 
Siefco Sic dcflniiii „iiiclinf"), Sarin nicfiC man Uon U nad) (.', (bicico ncnnen mir Sic Untcibtiiitnnrt „9up- 
pression"). 4)(an bat bavaiif jii adncii, bafi man bci bicjcm Icjitcn a)fftitn Sic Wa^fdinnr feft wicSer ben 
«6rpcr bcv bcttcffcnbcn 'I'erfon anient, ba uon bcr C^cnniiinfcit Siefco ^ferfnbrend bao ^)!a|en Seo Slep 
bimnoi'liirfco abbiinnt. 

^^Mt mail Ui ^)i\t^m0- (Incline) ^Jinfi kitii^l. 

t'rftcnei fei bier bcmcrft, bafi luenn unv iaiien, ein ibcil cinco SlciSnnnoftiirfeo ift ncnnil' o^f (If- 
bogen (inclino) fo (ancn iviv Saniif, eo ift ber Jbeil bco incline lueldien luir bcnulwii ; fo bafi locnn baO 
inclino-4)iaji 1 .^oD bctriiiU, fo beiiiihcn wir I ,{oll ; lucnn abcf bao SBaft 2 ,{oII cntbiilt, fo bcnii(icn obcr 
braud)en Irir miv IJ M^\\ imS fiir 8 ,ioU bcnupen obcr braudjcn luir IJ ^oVl, unb fiir 4 doll. If ^oB; 
man tann nlfo Sarauo erfebcn, Safi nad) bem crften >-<olI ivir aber J iJoU fiir jeSen tucifcrcii 3pU Sco 
n>irflid)cn 9Jtafico iiebraiidtcn obcr bcniijicn. 

iSci Scm siipprcssicii 'iltap abcr bcnnhcn oScr braud)cn \uir \ :JoD, j. S^. roenn bao suppressiun- 
Wafi 2 3oll betriiflt, fo iicbraiid)cn luir nnr I ^ofl, unb fiir 3 ^oll Ij ^pI, u. f. tu. 

llcbcr bic ^Jlrt bafi Sfafi bcr \'lermct oScr aud) fiir vofcn ^n nebmen, baben luir nidito \\i faflen, inScin 
CO fo uidc Berid)icSene Vlrten nibt, nad) lucldien ioldic •:'Jiaf!c ncnommcn luerScn fonncn, iinb cm *J*crfabreii 
bat fid) bierbei me fo (luccfmiifnii crancion, luic bao anberc ; unfere 'il^cftcn abcr lucrbcn in ganj Scrfclbcn 
Ui>eijc jU()ejd)nittcn luic Scr >)(ocf, Sefien Wafi fiber Scr ll^eflc ncnoninicn luirb. j^iir cincn Ucbcrjiebci 
aber foUte man Sao iiiag liber ben ^otf ncbmcn, iiber lueldieii ber Ueberficbcr benu^t luerben foil. 



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Figure 1 illustrates the method of taking the body measure. — First, by placing ^ ^ /' 
the square close up under the arms (one at a time) and marking CC ; draw a line ^ ■ ^' b 
from one to the other and mark A in center of back ; then measure from O to A , N ^ 

for scye depth, adding i inch for making up From O to B is natural waist, and • l > 

O to D for full length of coat; next measure the Breast, Waist and Seat, all quite 
snugly, as the Seat measure is as important as the Hreast measure in cutting a coat. 
Next place the straight-edge against the customer's back, as shown in Figure 2, 
letting it rest between the shoulder blades and hollow or central portion of the hips, 
hold it quite firmly and with a rule (or the end of a square) measure from A 
to B (this we call the incline); also measure from 1) to C (this we call the sup- 
pression). Care must be taken to measure them close, or rather firmly, against 
the body, as it is with these measures that we balance the garment. 

HOW TO USE THE INCLINE MEASURE. 

First, when we say such a part of a garment is incline, we mean it is the part 
of the incline we use; thus when the incline measure is i inch we use i inch; but 
when the measure is 2 inches we only use i J inches, and for 3 inciies of incline we 
use only li inches, and for a 4 inch incline we use only fl inches; thus it will be 
seen tiiat after the first inch we only use i of an inch to each inch of the actual 
measure 

But with suppression we use the half; for instance: when the suppression 
measure is 2 inches we use i inch, ami for 3 inches of suppression we use li 
inches, &c , &c. 

Of the taking of the sleeve measure, and also trousers, we have nothing to say, 
as there are many ways of taking those measures, and one has proved to be fully as 
good as the other; but our vests are cut alter the same measure we take for the 
coat, which is taken over the vest. But for an overcoat, the measure should be 
taken over the coat over which the overcoat is intended to be worn. 




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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 1. 

First draw square lines A ; then from A to B is ^ of an inch, all 
cases ; from B to C is scye depth ; from B to D is len^jth of natural 
waist; from D to E is two inches in all cases. 

Square Out Lines C, D and E : — From A to F is •} of half Breast 
measure, witli incline added. G is half way between A and F; H 
is 1-6 of Breast less ^ of an inch from line F. 

(see next page.) 



3uerft siel)c utdii bie $8icrerf=2inicit A ; uoii A biio 1? ;i 3oII, in 

oKeii JciKcit ; noii H bi^ C ift bie Xiffe bc'3 ^Hrin(od)»; uon H iiad) I) 

ift bie Sdruie bcr natiirlid)eu Xaille ; uon 1) nod^ E Jinb 2 3oU fiir nlle 

Salle. 

S)ie \'(nften{inien f", T) nnb E bc§ 3^icvectg :— S^on A fai^ F finb 

'i be§ "^alben SBrnftmn^e-s, niit „inc(ine" Da^n geredjnet. (i bebeutet bie 

C")alfte 3iuiid)en A unb F ; H ift ,'j ber iBrnft, lueniger -^ eine§ Boiled oon 

ber Sinie F. 

(i^ie^e niic^ftc (Seite.) 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 2. 

From C to I is 1-6 Breast. 
From I to J is § Breast. 
From line J to K is li inches. 
From F to O is incline less i inch. 
From A to L is 4 of Breast and \ inch. 



(fr(ldrun<) ^ec S^t^nung ^io. 2. 



5Kon C big T i[t J ber SBnift. 

i8ou I big J ift i ber SBruft. 

^on ber £inie -I big K finb U SoO. 

$8oii F big O ift „iiidine" Juemger 1 3oa. 

'iion A bis L ift i ber ^iBriift unb ', 3oU. 



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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 3. 

N is on Line J i of an inch from line G. Draw a line from L 
to N and apply the length from O to line K. From D to P is i inch 
in all cases ; from line P to Q is J of Breast ; from Q to R is incline ; 
from R to S is i6 inches in all cases; squared down by line D. From 
S to r is I h inches when Breast and Seat measure the same, but if 
Seat is larger than Breast add \ of an inch for each inch that the Seat 
is larger, or if the Seat is smaller than Breast reduce \ of an inch for 
each inch that the Seat is smaller. From T to V is ^ of suppression 
measure; from * to M is i Breast. 



N ift auf ber 2me J eiticii l^nlbeii 3ofl fon ber 2me G. y)la\\ 
jie()e eine Sinie ooii L wad] N uiib beiiii0e l)iertiei bie floiige ooii () bii 
jur Sitiie K. S8on D nac^ P ift ' 3ofl i" cCeit fallen ; Don bcr Siiiie 
bie Don P nad) Q get)!, ift I ber 33nift ; Don Q bi^ \i ift ^incline ;" Don 
R bi§ S finb 10 3°^ '« otteii i^aUen ; geineffen biirc^ bie 2inie D. -l^ow 
S big T fiiib li 3oQ, luemt Snift uiib 8cI)ooftinafj gleid) fiiib, ift aber ber 
©djoB longer aB bie ibruft, bann gebe man ] 3oU f"r j^ben 30U luelc^e 
ber ©d)ooB grofjer ift, ,^n, ober menn ber ©d)oo{3 fleiner ift, al§ bie 93ruft, 
bonn 5iet)e inon \ Soil fiir jeben 3ott ab, nm >ueld)e ber ©djoof] fleiner ift. 
3^on T nad) V ift h „fnppreffion" 9J{a6 ; Don * nad^ M ift bie Jpcilfte ber 
i^ruft ober bie l)albe IsHrnft. 



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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 4. 

From line O mark r j inches on line C; draw line from i\ to R 
at waist ; form back as per diagram ; draw line from R to V and fc^rm 
back of side body and skirt; mark \ of Breast from R, for width of 
side body, and draw line up to line C ; form side body as represented, 
finishing the lower front corner \ of an inch above line E ; line U is 
1-6 of Breast from O; draw line from lines O and K to within i^ 
inches of H on line H for front of scye. 



C^t'ddriiitfi ^ev 3ci<^ntittf) Wp. 4. 

58on bcv Cinie Q iidertrafle nion H 3ofi ouf bie Siiiie C ; baini 
.^ic'^c man eine fiiute Don 1\ 3ott nad) U bet bie ^nifle ; »om ^Hiicfeit luie 
in ber 3eid)"i"i9 angegeben ; banii ^\d)e man eine Siuie Don U nod) V 
uiib bilbe ba burdj bie ^iidfeite bc» Seitentl)ei(e^ itiib 8^ooJ3e§, be,^cid)iie 
\ ber 33ruft Don K, fiir bie iBreite be^@eiten=2()ei(es, nnb ^ie^e eine fitnie 
tjtnanf nad) ber Stnie C ; man mQd)e ben 8eitent^ei( luie nncjegeben, unb 
beenbiflt bie nntere Jroi't^K-rfe { 3ofl obert)olb ber fiinie E. 'J)ie fiinie 
U ift ,'i ber 53rn[t oon O; man ^iefie eine fiinie oon ben fiinien O unb K 
fo bofe bicjdbe 1/, 3oO »on II entfernt anf ber fiinie II bie ben iBorber^ 
tt)ei( be«5 3(rmlod)S bejeidinet. 



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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 5. 

Measure length of coat and mark length at W; from W square 
line to front ; from W to X is h Breast ; from X to Y is \ Breast ; 
from O measure \ of Breast to line U as per dotted to mark Z ; from 
Z to front of lapel is ii{ inches; take out h inch for the V; from line 
M on line C mark 3.^ inches ; from line M on line D mark 4 inches ; 
draw line from 4 to Y; mark front length of fore part i J inches below 
line E ; apply waist measure from V to line M, and take out the sur- 
plus cloth between side body and fore part on line D. 



ISflan ntefte bie £ange be^ 5Rorf§ unb bejeici^ne biefdbe bex bem 
33ud)ftaben AV; oon W ucrlangere mciii bie fiinie big pr 5.?orberfeite ; 
t)on W big X ift bie ^dlfteber iBriift ; won X big Y ift \ ber Sritft ; noit 
ntefeo man \ ber iBnift big jur fiinie U roie mit '':;>iiiitteit aiigebeiitet big 
nad) Z ; oon Z big ,yir Jronte beg Umfd}lagg finb 1^ 3°^ : '"*i" "'"^l"'"^ 
baDon i 30II fiir V ; lion ber Sinie M trage man anf bie fiinie C '6h 3ofl ; 
Don ber fiinie M trngc nion anf bie fiinie 1^ 4 3o(I iiber ; jie^e eine fiinie 
Don 4 nad) Y ; iibertrage bie ^Jront ficinge beg 3^orbcrtI)ei(eg li S^^ 
nnterf)alb ber fiinie K ; gebraudjc bag Waji ber ^oifle oon V nad) ber 
fiinie M nnb ne()me bann bag iibcrfliifjige Tnd) stuijdjen ben Scitentl)eil 
unb bem 'i^orbert^eil anf ber fiinie I). 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 6. 

Proceed to draft the same as for Diagram 5, adding i inch on to 
the skirt from S to T, as frock coats require more skirt than a cut- 
away. From M to A is 2i inches; from A to B is 2§ inches; from A 
to C is 2 J inches ; square Hne up from AA to D; also draw line from 
CB up for I. From F to I is 3 inches; draw a line from I to D and 
mark 2.J inches for G ; from D to H is 2 inches; shape lapel from G 
through H to B; square out from W to Y, and square down for front 
of skirt by line E; [. is 'f of an inch from Y, and K is :| of an inch 
from L ; finish by taking out \ inch between fore part and lapel 
at N. 



9)?on entiuerfe bie l^eidiinmc} flerabe jo luie bie 3i'id)'i">ig '9Jo .">, 
uiib fe|ic ein 3oU ^ii an beii ©d)OB oon S big T inbem grarf-9iijcte me\)V 
©cf)ij&e erforberii, me eiii augfleid)tiitteiiet 9iocf. "Son M bii A fiiib 2i 
3oU ; oou A big H 2g 3oa ; Don A big C 2^ 3oa ; jie^e eine fiinic 
t)inauf Don AA nad) D ; ferner eine Don CB ^tnanf fur I. 5ion F big 
I finb 3 3o(I ; 5iel)c eine Sinie Don I nad} D nub morfire 2\ 3oU fur G ; 
Don D nac^ H finb 2 3ott ; lege ben Umjc^lag jnerft Don (t bnrc^ II md) 
B; ,^ie()e roeiter Don W nad) Y nnb bann ()inab fiir bie Jronte beg 
©djofeeg burd) bie iiinie HI ; L ift l eineg 3oag Don Y, unb K i)"t 'i cineg 
3oUeg Don L ; man fdjliefee baburd) ha^ man \ Ml ^m\d)en bcm 'Sox-- 
bcrtt)ei( nnb ben Uml'dilag, bei N luegnimmt. 




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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 7. 

Diagram 7 is produced by marking lengths C, D and W. From 
C to I is J of Breast ; from I to J is 1-6 of Breast ; from P to Q is ^ 
of Breast for width of back; from Q to R is incline; from R to S 
and from S to T is the same as Diagram 5 ; from M to O is 3J 
inches; from M to H is 4 inches; square down from H for front of 
coat and finish by drawing line A 'I of an inch below Y and line B ■{ 
of an inch below A. Measure the waist from P to M, and take out 
the surplus cloth at the finish as shown in Diagram for Double-breasted 
Sack ; add i inch more on to () and H. 



S)ieje 3etd)inin9 roirb baburrf) (jergeftellt, boji man bie Cangeii C, 
D luib W morfirt. «on C iiQcf) I ift J ber S3ruft ; oon I imcf) J ift }, 
ber 33ruft ; Don V imd) Q ift J ber SBruft fiir bie SBeite bcs 9iucteug ; oon 
Q mdi K i[t „inc(ine ;" Don R na6) S unb Don S nod) T ift eS biefelde 
njie ill 3eict)niing 9io. a ; Don M nad) O finb 3| ^ofl ; Don M nod) H 
finb 4 3ofl ; mon 5ief)e I)innb Don H fur bie S^orberfeite bc§ 9torfe§, unb 
madje jum Sd)Iuf3 bie Sinie A, I ^oU unter^alb Y unb bie Sinie B 
ii 3oU untcrt)alb A. 9)JeBe bie faille Don P no(^ M unb nct)mc bog 
iiberfliifjige ^ud) roeg, roie biefeg in ber ^eic^nung fiir cinen Sncf ^JHorf niit 
boppellcr 58ruft ober jjuei 9iei^en itntipfen ,^u ie{)cn ift ; ju O unb II 
fiige mon je nod) einen 3ot( t)in5U. 




SL....U 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM Z. 

Diagram 8 is an Overcoat, which is produced in the same manner 
as Diagram 7, except the Skirt, which has one inch more spring, 
giving to it the same cloth as the Skirt of Diagram 6. 

From M to N is 4^ inches. 

From M to O is 5 inches. 

From B to A is J the full length of coat. 

For Double-breasted Coat, add i .J inches to the front. 



3eic^iuing 8 i[t ein Uebcrrocf, mclc^cr in berfelben SBeife luie 
3eicf)nung 7 tjergeftetlt Juirb, niit VIugitQ^me be§ 9iocfeg, luelc^er eiucn 
3oa nie^r ^higbel^niiiig f)ai, looburdi er gerabe jo oiel 'Xwd) nimnit luie 
ber 9iorf in 3etd)nnng G. 

j8on M bi^ N" ift 4.1 3on. 

«on M big O ift 5 3oa. 

9Son B bis A ift \ ber ooOen fidnge be§ 'Siod^. 

5iir einen boppetbriiftigen 9iocf, gebe ju ber ^ront 1^ 3ofl. 




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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 9. 

Diagram 9 shows how a Cape may be got without drafting. 

First take the Overcoat pattern over which the Cape is to be 
worn and place shoulder-points together, as illustrated, taking out 
3 inches between A and B, which will form shoulder. 

Use a straight collar on Cape, so as to admit of its buttoning 
close under the chin. 



3cid)ming 9 ^eigt luie ein „^ape" tiergefteflt luerbcn fann o^ne 3cid)= 

nung. 

3uerft ne^me bag 9Jiufter oom Ueberrocf iiber weldjcn ber „gape" 511 
tragen ift unb lege bie S^ultenifpitjen jufammen, luie in illustration, 
iief)me 8 BoU ,^tt)iid)en A unb B ^erau^, »ue(d)eg bie ©d^nlter t)er[tent. 

@ebrond)e einen geroben tragen om „Sape", fo bofe berfelbe fnapp 
unter bent ft1nu jugetnopft luerben fonn. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 10. 

The Back and Skirt of this coat is the same as that of Diagram 5, 
except that from W to Y is ] of Breast. 

From A to B is ^ Breast. 

From B to C is 3 inches. 

From MM to OO is li inches. 

Make lapel \ of an inch narrower at the bottom than that of 
the frock coat in Diagram 6. 



S)ie atiicffeite unb ber 9iocf biejeg 9iorfe§ finb luic in 3eid)nu"9 ^»f 
ouSgenommcn, bofe W big Y \ ber SBnift i[t. 

isBon A big B \\t I SBruft. 

«on B big C ift 3 .RoO. 

$8011 MM big 00 ift li Sofl- 

9J?od)e bell ^(ufjdilag (lapd) \ 3oa |d)nia(er am nnteren ©nbe alg 
beim giactrorf in 3eid)ining 0. 




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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 11. 

Diagram 1 1 represents a fat man's Coat, drafted in tlie same 
manner as Diagram 5, except that C represents .J Breast. 

From C to A is 3 J inches. 

From A to B is 2.3 inches, squared up from A. 

Find D by applying waist measure, taking out i inch between 
side body and fore part. 

From D to G is 4 inches. 

Shape fore part through B to G. 

To find collar, draw a line from top button through gorge point; 
from E to F is i inch ; draw a line from the brake through F for 
collar ; stand and finish as represented. 



3eid^niing 11 fteflt eiiien 9tocf fiir einen forpiilenteit yjlann bar, in 
berfetbeii SUeije gc,^t'id)iiet me in 3fi<i)»ii"9 •'"'' aii^genoinmcii, bofj C I bor 
SBriift iyt. 

58on C bii A ift 3i 3oa. 

5Bon A big B ift 2^ 3oa abgenieffen ooii A. 

giube D inbem man bog Xaiaen^aJJafs antegt unb \ 3on .Vuiidieii 
ber ©cite beg fiijrpetg unb bem 3?orbertt)fil f)eraugnimnit. 

«ou D big G ift 4 3oa. 

!ii^i(be SJorbert^eil burd) B nod^ G. 

Urn ben Slragen ^u forniiren, jiefie eine Sinie oon bem oberen ^nopf 
burd) bic Vldifelfpit^e am .ftaU ; oon E big F ift 1 3oa ; jietje eine Siuie 
Don ber 33nift (brake) burd) F fiir ben trogen ; fte^e unb fteUe fertig luie 
bargefteOt. 



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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMS 12 AND 13. 

Diagriim 12 represents a fat man's frock which is drafted the same as Diagram 
6, except that C represents J Breast and D * Waist after taking out i incii l)et\veen 
side body and fore part at waist. 

From C to A is 2i inches and from A to B is 2.\ inciics; from D to E is 2i 
inches; square up from A to H and shape fore part through B and E; square up 
from E for lapel and form the same as lapel in Diagram 6. 

Diagram 13 shows how to draft a Sleeve. First measure the scye of the gar- 
ment close around the edge, making no allowance for seams, which, for example, 
we will say is 17 inches scye measure. Deduct 1 inch from scye measure which will 
leave 16 inches for sleeve measure, showing that in all cases the sleeve must be 
drafted 1 inch smaller than the actual scye measure, except the distance from C to F 
and from C to G ; which will be explained in their proper place ; proceed to diaft 
by drawing square lines from point A. 

Maik from A to B ^V '^^ sleeve or small measure. 
" A to C is i " " 

" ' A to D is < " " 

" " C to E is T»5 

" '• C to G is J of scye or full measure. 
" " C to F is ^ " " 

Draw line from E to G and from G to H. 

From I to J is | of an inch, in all cases. 

From I to H is the width of arm of square. 

From I to K is " " 

Find length of sleeve at L. 

From M to N is It inches, in all cases. 

From N to L is 6i inches for width of sleeve. 



Die Sfi.cJliiuiifl ^o. 12 fteUt beti 9toct eineS forljulcntcn WaiineS bar, unb irt gerabc fo 
entroorfcn roic Me Sfi^nu'ifl ^J"^- '^ Qiu^genommen bafe C } *Pnift, unb D J Jaille barftellt, 
nad)bem man } SM wi)d)cn bem Scitentbeil unb bent Dinberen ibeil ber laiUe lueautmmt. 

■iBon (' uadj \ finb 2i Soil, unb oon A nad) B ebi-nfalls l'j ,-5oII; Don I) mi) E ii't 2* 
3oU; man jielje Don A nad) B binauf unb formite ben ootberen Iheil burd) 15 unb E; man 
fange uon E an, ben Umfd)lag ju tnefecn, unb me&e benfelbcn flcrabc luie ben Iktfdilan in 
ber 3cid)nuna 9io. ti. 

®ie 3fid)nunfl 9Ui. i;^ erfliirt mic man eincn Slermel jeidinet. Suerft meffe man baiJ 
Qlrmlnd) bes .Sleibungsftiicfa bid)t an ben ^Hanb Ijetuni ol)ne iebod) etioas fiit bie 9ial)t ju,<U' 
gebcn. DiefeJ *2(rmlocftmo6 unillen mic annefjmcn betriint 17 3oll. Wan ?iebe 1 3olI lunn 
yitmlodimafj ab, bann bleiben nod) Hi 3oll file bao *,i(ciinelmn6, roovau? evfid)tlid) ift, ba|! in 
aUtn i\iiQen bee *Jlermel 1 Soil flcinev gcjeidjnet luerben mufi al8 ba^ mirtlid)e 'Jlrnilodiniafi, 
mit Sluonabnte ber L^ntfevnuufl oon (' nad) F unb oon (' nad) ('•; roan lueiter untrn evfliivt 
inerbcn mirb; '-Wan jeid)ne loeiter, inbeni man (S'lganjunflalinien uon A ^iebt, 

Waifive Don A nad) B J^ bi-'<» SlernieU ober fleinen WofeeS. 

n It A fi O ,t ,f II 

II »* A „ 1) 2 II II 

II II ^ II ^^ T^ " " 

II I, C „ (} I be* 9lrmlod)6 obet boUcn WafeeB. 

II It ^ II '^ ^ tt It 

WolW jie[)e ginien Uon E nac6 G unb Don Ci nad) H. 
%o\\ I nad) .1 ift \ 3oIl fiir a lie boitommenbe S^iille. 
35on I nad) H ift bie Sltmiueite bic 53reitc bea ^ii5intel«. 
3.Hin I nad) K „ „ 

Wan finbe bie Sange bc^ 9lcrmcl8 bei L. 
SSon M bio N finb H SoU fiit alle ^oUe. 
3Jon N bi« L finb CJ 3olI fiir bie Sletmelioeite. 




-#•—-- • •• 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMS 14 AND 15. 

Diagram 14 represents a Vest, drafted to the same breast measure 
as the coat. 

From I to J is the back shoulder point of coat, which is 
J and i of breast 

From Hne I to H is i J inches ; G is half way from line I to H ; 
the other points are the same as the coat, except F, which is i inch 
farther to the front, and h inch shorter. 

From A to B is 2\ inches; from C to I) is the same; shape vest 
as illustrated, taking out the surplus cloth between L and K, which 
must always amount to h inch more than the incline used for the 
coat, or, in other words, take out the incline and J inch extra at the 
waist from L to K for any case where the waist measure is not 4 
inches smaller than the breast, and apply waist measure from M to L 
and K to C, as illustrated in Diagram 15, throwing the waist to the 
front and marking 2i inches from B to E the same as for a fat man's 
coat. 



35ie 3eirf)nung ^io. 14 fteOt eine SSefte oor, mldje baSfelbe SBnift^ 
mafe !)at, me hex IHocf. 

Jljon I nad) J ift ber t)tiitcre ©d^ultert^eil be^ !iHorfc§ iueld)er I iitib i 
be^o 93ruftt^eil« bctragt. 

3)ie entferming Doii ber 2um I nad) II betragt V, 3otL ; (r bebeii = 
tet bic ^Qlbe ©ntfentug Don ber iiinte I nad) II. ®ie anberen ^45unttc 
[inb biefelben luie bei bem IRocf, mtt 3(u^nat)me Don F wetdje^ nm /. 30(1 
entfcrnter nod) bem a^orbert{)eil unb nm .1 3oa fiirjer ift. 

5i5on A nod) b finb 21 3oa ; oon C noc^ D ebenfaU^ ; mon gebc 
ber IsbJefle ben (5d)nitt rote in ber 3eid^nung ougegeben nnb fd)neibe ben 
iiberfluifigen ©toff ^\mid)e\i L nnb K roeg, roeldje^ immcr }. 3oa meljr 
fcin nuiB, ol^ fiir ber fur ben 9torf benn^te „iiK'lini-", ober in onberen 
aSorten, mon net)me ben ^incline" unb l 3oU onfeerbem, bei ber StaiUe 
t)Ou L nod) K roeg, roenn immer ba^3 Xoittenmafe nid)t nm 4 3oU roeniger 
betrdgt roie bog S3ruftmoB, unb benu^e bog jtoillenmoB Don M nad) L nnb 
nub Don K nod) C roie ou^ ber ^eic^nnng 15 erfid)tlic^ ift, unb fdiloge 
bie Xaille nod) ber ^ronte um unb morlire 2}. 3oU Don B nod) E roie bei 
bem Siocf bes forpulenteu 'OJ^anneg. 



I 





k 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMS 16 AND 17. 

Diagram i6 shows how to draft the fore part of a pair of trousers ; 
first square Unes from point A ; from A to B is the height of waist ; 
from B to C is the length of leg ; D is half way between B and C ; 
E is 2 inches above D in all cases; from A to F is lA inches in all 
cases; from B to H is ^ seat on halves; from H to I is J seat; 
from I to K is ^ inch ; from H to J is ^ inch. 

Square up from H to find G. Measure out j of waist from F to 
find O. ; find half the distance from G to O and mark P as shown in 
dotted lines — thus P represents a large while G represents a slim 
waist; from C to L is t3 of seat; from L to M is t\ and A of seat ; 
N is i of seat from B ; draw a line from N to L and from K to M ; 
from R to Q is i of knee. R should be the same distance from S 
that Q is from T, the object being to reduce the fore part of the knee 
as much from one side as the other, in order to give a perfect balance 
to narrow trousers. The knee measure for a wide knee often occupies 
the entire space from S to T 

Diagram 17 shows how to get the back part. Draw a line from 
N to I ; from N to A is i^ inches in all cases ; from I to D is i if inches 
in all cases; from G to E is j!j seat ; from E to F is c seat ; from C to 
U is 2.^ inches ; add that to the forepart and measure from F" to U, the 
half of waist with i inch added for seams, and as the forepart is i of 
knee, add i inch from R to P and from O to O for seams in leg ; from 
V to W is .J of bottom and h inch for seams, and from X to Y is the 
same 



@tr{(driitt$ bee ^ei^nunt^ 0{o* 16 tinb 17* 

3Me 3eic^nuiifl DJo. IG fteQt bas S8orbevi()eil oon cin ^^aar JTiofcn oor. ^utx^t 
iit^t man Sinieii con 5|Jiin(te A; oon A nod) B bebcutet bie J>ot)e bet laiOe; oon B 
iiac^ C i(l bie Sfinge bc§ SBeineS; D ifi bie .fiolfte jioifdjen B unb C; E bebeuttt immer 
eine ©ntfernung oon 2 3"^ obet^alb D; oon A nad) F finb immer IJ ^o\l; oon B 
nac^ ir ift bie ^^filfte bc« ©ijjee; oon H nad) I bejcic^nct J Si|j; uon I iiac^ K J ^oU; 
oon n nad) J J ^oQ. 

3iel^e l^inauf oon H urn G ju pnben. 9Kcffe J bev laiDe oon F tim O ju pnben; 
flnbe bie ^al6e ©ntfcvnnng oon G nad) O unb morte P, roie in ben puuflirten Sinien 
angebeutet— unb ouf biefe 9lrt fteflt P eine loeile, unb G eine enge ?;aiac bar; oon C 
nac^ L ift ^ be^ ®i^e§; oon L nac\) M ift J unb j\ be§ ©ifjeS; N ift ^ be« ^i(je§ 
oon B; jie{)e eine fiinie oon N nad) L unb oon K noc^ M; oon R bi§ Q ift J be^ 
SnieS. R foUte biefelbe ©ntfernung oon S fein, lote oon Q nad^ T, inbem es ber 
3n)ecf ift ben oorberen I^eil be§ Sfnie'S on einer ©eite fo oiel ju oerfiirjen loie an ber 
anbetn (Seitc bamit ba^ lic^iige 33er()altni6 engev S^o\en babiirc^ l)eigcfteQt loirb. 
1)06 ftniemafe fur ein loeiie^ Jl'nie uiiiiml bisioeilen ben ganjen Jiaum oon S nad) T em. 

9Iu§ ber 3eic^nung 9Jo. 17 ift erfic^tli(^ mie mon ba§ Jpintctt^eil befonint. i)2an 
jie^e eine Sinie oon N nac^ I; oon N nac^ A betrogt immer 1^ ^oH; oon 1 noc^ D ift 
1^3oa in nHen goQen ; oon G uqc^ E ift J be^ ®i(je^; oon E nad) F J bc6 ®i(je§; 
oon C nad) U finb 2^ S"'!; "">" nc^me biess ju bem 5Jotbcrt^cil unb meffe oon F bis 
U bie ^olfte ber ZaiUc loobei 1 3oD f"r bie SRfi^te jugegeben loirb, unb bo boS SSor; 
bert^eil bie ^pfilffe be« finie'S ift fo gebe man i ^oQ oon E noi^ P mit, oon Q nad) 
O fiir bie DJo^te am 23ein ju; oon V noc^ W ift bie .gidlfte be§ Unteri£)eil6 unb J 3oa 
fiir 9la[)te, unb baafelbe oon X nac^ Y. 



p 




